Thought #1: don't blog after being up for 18 hours, after having gotten only five hours of sleep the night before.
Thought #2: why is all the food in my house so bland? Oh...of course.
So, yeah, I'm back. Some thoughts on S.D.:
- It wasn't really as wild as I thought it would be. A typical Folsom St. Fair has much more nastiness than what I saw the entire week. Or maybe I just wasn't in the right place, or maybe it was because...
- There were far fewer people than expected. I asked a number of other attendees, and they all agreed that it was a surprisingly small crowd. Smaller than at any time since the early '90s.
- It was a very Southern crowd.
- The entire city was very welcoming. Lots of businesses in the Quarter were sporting rainbow flags. The tour guide on my New Orleans Katrina disaster tour, a retired schoolteacher and grandfather, made a special point of welcoming S.D. tourists.
- If you have a partner or boyfriend don't go to Decadence. Just don't. Unless you need a reason to end a relationship, then by all means, go!
- Don't buy souveniers after having a few cocktails. I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do with enough mix for eight dozen beignets.
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- New Orleans is coming back, whether you like it or not.
Because of the sparse attendence, I'm very glad that I made other plans for Thursday and Friday. On Thursday I rented a car and drove I-10 through Mississippi and Alabama, to see the damage and add two to my list of visited states. I had lunch in downtown Biloxi at the Ol' Schooner restaurant, where President Bush visited on Monday, August 28 (I heard a report on NPR on Tuesday and decided I wanted to visit). The food was very good, the staff very friendly, and the name tags from Bush's visit were in an unceremonious pile on a shelf behind the counter.
I spent all of 18 minutes in Alabama. That was enough.
On Friday I took the Gray Line Katrina disaster tour. It was three hours long and very sobering. I'm very glad I did it, though. I saw devestated neighborhoods, damaged levees, and a hell of a lot of determination to rebuild (and very little patience for those elsewhere in the country that don't want New Orleans to rebuild).
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On Saturday, there was a free concert on the corner of Bourbon and St. Ann street, featuring Jeanie Tracy, Inaya Day, and
Amber.
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On Sunday, there was the parade. It was only thirty minutes long, about half of its usual length. That evening, I met a very outgoing man from Mississippi who made friends with a local resident. She ended up inviting us to her home in the Quarter, where we hung out in the interior courtyard with her neighbor and his two tenants for a couple of hours. The bad part is that I missed the height of the debauchery. But it was a reasonable trade: I got to see a bit of the real New Orleans. Unfiltered. It was, for reasons I can't really explain (and, no, not drugs) an experience that was more vivid, more alive, than anything I've felt in a long time. I'm still trying to figure it out.